You will be accommodated in one of ten bedrooms in five thatched bandas, nestling    into coconut palms, mangrove trees and baobabs. Inside you’ll find a spacious room with  large double bed – the traditional Zanzibari four-poster with a mosquito net draped over it – whose plump pillows are adorned with a freshly-plucked hibiscus flower. They are decorated with colourful African prints and furnished with local antiques, and a ceiling fan!! There’s just enough space for a cot or an extra bed.

 At the back is a bathroom with basin, shelves; and a separate toilet. Please note the bathrooms are attractive with a sunken bath, but no plug, and an open plan hand shower. There is now solar heating so hot water is available, but don’t forget that as there is no fresh water on the island, and it is all shipped from the mainland, so don’t use too much water.

The generator that supplies the Lodge is switched off in the evenings, so the ceiling fans don’t work as well, and you may want to  keep cool by opening the banana leaf shutter to let the sea breeze in.   

Chapwani’s sixteen acres are covered with massive ancient baobab trees, coconut palms, passion fruit and giant cacti
The jetty sticks out into the sea at the southern end of the island, where there are a number of small sandy coves, and where there is a large sandbank which emerges at low tide, meaning you can swim no matter the state of the tide.

The north shore of the island is principally reef with fossilized coral cliffs rising 3 to 4 metres out of the ocean and fringed with vegetation. This side of the island bears the wave action and has been carved into interesting shapes  In one place there is a small gap in the coral which lets the sea in and out at high tide, leaving a tranquil inland lagoon in which to swim. The southern shore has a wide sandy beach. The centre of the island is generally covered with dense vegetation, through which winds a network of paths.

The island is good for bird watching, with many birds using the island as a roost. In the early evening the egrets flock from their feeding grounds on Zanzibar island, back to Chapwani for the night. During the day you can sit in the bar and watch out for Sundevall's blue duikers, a rare endemic species of which there are about sixty on the island.

The thick vegetation here may be why it is home to a stray colobus monkey whose presence on the island no one can explain. Shy and reclusive, he is only occasionally seen swinging from one tree to another.

The large herd of some 60 dik-diks, miniature antelope, native to Zanzibar hide here during the heat of the day in the thick undergrowth, to emerge in the evening in the open.
One of the trees at the southern end of the island is also home to a large flock of fruit bats (over 1,000), these sleep in the safety of the island during the day and leave in large swarms at dusk towards the mainland, returning only shortly before dawn to their resting place.

Along the South West Coast of the island runs the sea wall protecting the small but fascinating British seamen's graveyard. This is a historic monument of great interest and beauty and the graves through their inscriptions tell the stories of tall ships, battles with arab dows during the slave wars and the sinking of HMS Pegasus, the first shot to be fired in the First World War. You'll notice that there is also a small cemetery on the island, which explains the island's English name, Grave Island. The British used it in the late 1800s and early 1900s to bury Royal Navy sailors who lost their lives at sea. It also contains gravestones for the crewmen of the HMS Pegasus, which was bombed in Zanzibar harbour in 1914 by the German cruiser SMS Konigsberg. The cemetery hasn't been well-maintained, but it has a certain atmosphere and is interesting historically. It's worthwhile taking a walk around to read the inscriptions on the stones.


From here the long sandy beach stretches for over 500 yards all the way to the Northern tip of the island. The sand is fine and white and perfect for swimming for some eight hours out of twelve. At low tide, the coral reef surrounding the island is uncovered, revealing crevices and pools in the coral full of multi-coloured small shore life. Shoals of flying fish can often be seen off the island and dolphins regularly pass close by the shore.

In the early morning a flock of white egrets and other sea birds gather at the Northern tip of the island. An early morning dip in this spot is an unforgettable experience, the birds dive in the water all around you, totally oblivious to your presence.

The two little coves at the North of the island provide perfect privacy and must be one of the most idyllic spots in the whole of Zanzibar to spend a day on the beach in total isolation.

Moving round the island to the North Eastern coast of Chapwani, we come to a natural pool, emptied at each low tide through a small gap in the coral but refilled with fresh sea water with each tide. This is another idyllic spot to swim and sunbathe.

The remainder of the North East coast is lined with rugged coral broken by only a couple of small isolated coves suitable for swimming only at high tide.

At night the island is superb. The lights of Stonetown sparkle in the distance and the stars above are breathtaking.

The island is surrounded by small coves, sandy bays and crystal blue waters and is perfect for snorkelling, windsurfing and diving at the many interesting locations near the island.  

 
Another great plus is that you can swim out from the beach as far as you like at any time of the day. Chapwani is one of very few locations in Zanzibar when you can swim all day, regardless of the tide. When the water is low you can also walk out onto the reef, where you can join local fishermen in looking for starfish, sea cucumbers and that kind of thing.  

ACTIVITIES

This is not a resort, so there's not much in the way of watersports activities. However the following list, whilst not full, should keep you busy!!,

•  Swim and sunbathe on the beach - in low tide you’ll have to walk to the end of the jetty to swim
• Explore the wooded interior – being only 10 minutes from end to end, you’re unlikely to get lost
•  Borrow a canoe and paddle around the island
• Spot dik-dik (miniature antelopes) and, hanging from the trees while they sleep, a colony of fruit bats
• Look out for birds, including a pair of fish eagles and frequently-passing waders
• Visit the graveyard of the English sailors who were killed on HMS Pegasus at the start of WW1
• Take the hotel’s boat into Stone Town (there’s a free outward shuttle in the morning and return in the afternoon) to go sightseeing, shopping, or visiting the spice garden
• Go diving with One Ocean dive centre in Stone Town - $80 for a day trip with double dive and lunch
•  Play beach volleyball (if you can find enough players)
• Take a boat trip to the adjacent islands of Bat and Changuu (Prison], where you can see the giant endangered Aldabra Tortoises, or go snorkelling, or perhaps just walk around, or eat at the restaurant.
• There is no official beauty salon, but massages are sometimes available on request in your room.
• Tour of Stone Town for half a day is $70 with driver and a guide
• Half Day Tour of The Spice Plantations is $70 with a driver and a guide

Swimming with dolphins is $90 for a half day with car and driver

In truth it's a bit basic, and would be more of a fantasy escape island could you not always see the boats anchored in the harbour.